seasonal changes

You may think it is unendingly hot and humid here. We did, when we were first considering Vietnam. Turns out that describes the typical monsoon climate of southern VN, not here in the north. Hanoi is on the 21st parallel north.

Sure, we have seasons here. Two of them. The hot, muggy, rainy summer season has just ended and we’re entering the cold, gray, dry winter season.

The change in the weather unleashes so many feelings for us. Maybe we need the seasonal changes as much as nature does. Worldwide, people react to these changes. A slight temperature dip brings about a wardrobe change, some recipe changes and more noticeably, a joy. People seem happy. Is this universal? Cooler temperatures roll around. The aroma of fallen leaves, the fresh, clean air is the scent of earth revitalized. Time to reflect, recharge and reconnect. It is here.

I am not talking about the current apocalyptic, catastrophic life-ending climatactic changes and the ensuing joy-less depression.

It was a lovely summer on Lopez Island, way up on the 48th parallel N. Glorious. Laid back. Quick. A minor amount was accomplished constructing the Lopez studio and a major amount conquered in the eating kale department. How would we survive without Horse Drawn Farm? This farm, half-way between the ferry terminal and our place, grows voluptuous, beautiful produce. If you had visited, you’d know about the beauty of the produce and how lucky we are that they farm on the island, because we’d have dragged you to their farm stand.

Bounty of tomatoes and eggplants.
Nightshade section at the self-serve Horse Drawn Farm stand.

Doug bought a real motorcycle after getting his endorsement.

1984 BMW motorcycle
Doug’s new ride.

Visits and visiting happened. We love and miss our family and friends.

Amy and Maggi, thanks for road-trippin’ all the way up.
Bunch’a Yules brunching.
Tall Grand. Short Gramps.
Reunion with life-long friends in Hackensack, MN.
Hanoi Douglas made it to Lopez.

When it was just the two of us we worked on the studio.



Beth won the door paint rivalry.  Purple.

It was a lean crabbing season, in part due to the combination of cool weather, that small hole in the boat, and a non-aligning tide schedule. Boat-dragging at low tide stinks. But not the view. It does NOT stink.

Aleck Bay at low tide.
Our one good catch was 9 enormous male Dungeness.
Impromptu crab-fest. And Doug’s renown cabbage slaw.

Our half-acre is home to about 30 Douglas fir trees, ranging in age from 20 to 100 years old. Some struggle with a slow-growing brown root rot. Over time, we’ve been watching 7 old, infected trees that were dying. They’d been weakened to the point that a big wind storm would drop them on our living quarters. We had to deal with them. Translated, that means we had them chopped down into 12 foot sections. Then we bucked, rolled and stacked the rounds to dry for the year. Lumberjacking. Big fun. Right, Grands?

Log rolling. Wall building. For drying wood, not keeping others out.
Glamping?

Being back in Hanoi feels like home. Since our return, we searched for and found a house that doubles as a violin building studio. With guest rooms. Score–the kitchen is big AND has an oven. We released the hope that we’d find a garden-able yard. But we do have patios front, back and up high on the top-level with lots of big plants, vegetables, herbs and other growing things that definitely count as garden type materials.

We’ve unpacked this truckload and and have spread our junk out among 3 floors.

We are acquainting ourselves with this new area east of Hanoi. Tourists stick to the other side of the river. It means we get to stretch ourselves to communicate entirely in Vietnamese. And pantomime. Our handiest lifesaver is a smart-phone photo. A picture is definitely worth a thousand [mispronounced] words.

Bán nhà means house for sale.

Where to buy food is always at the top of our to-do list. Our prior apartment was a short walk to a large wet market, with fresh vegetables, fruits, meats and more, available every day, sold without excess packaging or folderol whatsoever. Here in Long Bien, we’re on the prowl for something similar. So far we’ve seen some scattered dinnertime sidewalk vendors and a few obnoxiously large Vinmart stores, located in the lower levels of the scattered high-rise apartments that dot this side of the river. We’ve been in them. Too much walmart-y stuff, not enough fresh, local food. Not our thing.

We drive across the car-free Long Bien bridge often. Motorbike lanes flank both sides of the center railroad tracks on this 2 km span of the Red River.

We continue to walk around, exploring and partaking in the liveliness of everyday life here. Some photos I refuse to snap because doing so would be rude, so let me describe 2 colorful moments from today. An elderly woman in her 80s is seated on a short plastic stool on the sidewalk, at her family’s tea stand. Elegant. Enviable posture. Long gray hair beautifully wound up, snug with a carved hair clasp. Hands folded, in her lap.  Watching us walk by, she smiles and waves. With both feet immersed in a large, worn, red plastic bucket, soaking. (Later, learn there’s fresh ginger in hot water.) Next picture this. A man in his 70s, regal and poised, slowly pedals his ancient-looking upright bicycle, also with impeccable posture. Wearing a dapper fedora hat probably from the 50’s. And well-worn cotton pajamas.  We smile at each other and nod hello. We’re all the same underneath whatever clothes are on the outside. Human. Fueled by connections.

We’ve noticed a few down jackets appearing, a precursor for the cold front barreling down from China. The temperature is falling daily. Winter has officially arrived. Hopefully not for long.

Come visit! Not only is there a phở nhà hàng (diner) right next door, our new ‘hood has a horse.

The horse across the street in our neighborhood. Bureau of grass control.